Live from the Himalayas (2): Fair Trails Exploration

Unfortunately, the weather was hazy this morning and the chain of Himalayan mountains was shrouded in haze. Too bad, because the view from Baspur stretches from the Dhaulagiri Himal to the Langtang Himal and can without a doubt compare to such famous viewpoints as Poon Hill or Nagarkot. After a hearty breakfast with our caring hostess, we started late and first traipsed for 1 1/2 hours on a jeep track to the busy village of Hattibang. Going around this stretch on jungle trails would have been too tedious. In Hattibang you then follow a densely forested river valley uphill, whereby the complex climb reveals that this route must have had greater importance in the past. In fact, in the past this was part of one of the great salt routes from Tibet to India. On a small pass, the Pansirang Bhanjyang, we meet a group of Chepang women who, when asked, brought money from the district capital for earthquake relief. At the pass, we also have a clear view of Jyandala, our destination for the day, which we then follow on wonderful paths that lead along the steep flank of Siraichuli, Chitwan’s highest mountain. Jyandala is a small and very poor Chepang village surrounded by buckwheat and mustard fields and huge marijuana plants. The Chepang were one of the last hunting tribes in Nepal, who lived in caves until about 100 years ago, speak their own language and have remained economically disadvantaged to this day. The homestay in Jyandala is therefore also very simple and not rentable for paying guests, but soon some new houses will be rentable. But the dinner on the clay floor next to the open fire was an experience and the simple breakfast of buckwheat chapati and hot yam root gave you strength for the whole day and proves: “The more you need, is less”.

Like from another time: Dinner in the forgotten Chepang village of Jyandala, Mahabharat Mountains; ® Trail Angels

For us, however, it was not a matter of descending into the steaming heat, but continuing to climb along the ridge. Unfortunately, this grandiose path has already overgrown and partially slipped and needs to be repaired. For us, however, this meant that we were temporarily swallowed up by the jungle. With all its blessings included: all kinds of animals, bloodthirsty lychees (leeches) and huge nettle plants. We were rewarded at the highest, treeless elevations with a breathtaking view and the certainty that it has not yet been admired by many foreigners.

Breathtaking View: Where Two World Landscapes Meet! View from the Vorhimalya, the Mahabharat Mounatins, down into the Terai, which already belongs to the Indian lowlands. ® Trail Angels

Strength, which we also needed, because this day required special efforts in routing. First it went higher through the yellow and pink of the blooming mustard and buckwheat fields, until another pass was climbed. Now the path plunged into the impenetrable green of the monsoon forest with all its sounds. The ascent to the next pass is short and the view takes your breath away: the view down into the Terai, which already belongs to the Indian lowlands, is endless, while in the other direction the glacier peaks are still shining in the sun.

The magic of trekking in the Mahabharat Mountains: Grandiose views of the high Himalayas (in the picture: Manaslu Himal) and you will hardly meet any other hikers; ® Trail Angels

Soon we descend on a better path that leads us straight to Upardanggadhi. A superbly situated Chepang village overlooked by an ancient fort. Here 200 years ago the English tried to conquer Nepal but they lost their teeth. The homestay in Upardanggadhi is clean, the food is good and prepared outdoors and in the evening we listened to the stories of the village elder accompanied by the monotonous but fascinating song of the jungle. Prashant, our culture expert, elicited the most fascinating stories from him. Bat hunting takes place before the monsoon and in winter and large, branching trees, such as the Chea trees, are provided with nets in which the bats then become entangled. By the way: The bats are boiled whole, then air dried and then eaten with the plaster and stalk. Have a good meal!

With the bat hunters: An elderly Chepang woman explains the hunting techniques of the Chepang to Prashant and Peter. These are the fair trails – more than trekking! ® Trail Angels

Upardanggadhi is definitely a highlight of this journey. Now the descent into the lowlands and its adventures await us. Sequel follows.

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